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OT: Fitness Nerds and Babe

I've done chiro, physio, scraping (I assume this is blading above) shockwave, cupping, acupuncture.

I've even did a Reiki Shamanistic healing session.
Lots of reading as well regarding breathwork and the neuroplasticity of pain.

I run around a 6 in pain on a daily. Lots of yoga and functional movement resistance training.
 
in the past 10 years or so, I've been dealing with bursitis in the shoulder. Nerve entrapment in fascia.

Have you tried daily hanging on a pull up bar?….its shown to be remarkably effective for the majority of shoulder issues, as it opens up the space in your shoulder joint over the long term, reducing any impingement etc.
 
Scraping is probably the more commonly used term.

It hurts like a bitch, bruises like a mother fucker but does wonder for tight IT bands

I’ve also heard the big thing with IT bands is working on strengthening exercises moreso than just stretching/pain relief when they’re tight.

Hip thrusts, and runners extensions with a resistance band are great.

Purely anecdotal so I’d put zero credence in this….but I also like if I’m doing something like pigeon pose, to kinda “flex” that back leg and put some tension on it lifting it from the floor a bit, so it’s stretched under load. It’s something I saw inn a DDP Yoga video back in the day that made sense, so I ripped it off anytime I’m doing yoga like poses/stretches. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
oh and Montana I think you asked about whether I use a theraband thinger, and the answer is no.

we do have a foam roller and lacrosse ball we'll use post-climbing.

but if I'm being honest, that's the next thing I need to improve and work at, cooling down and maximizing my recovery. want to come up with a like 20-30 min yoga type climbing cooldown routine...
 
and then the other thing I should say is that I don't spend much time independently researching various treatments, I basically just fully trust my physio at this point. I went to five others before finding her, and when I listen to her, I can do the things I want without pain, which is good enough for me.

plus, she's basically the only physio I've seen who doesn't waste my time with gimmicky treatments that don't actually help heal the injury; doesn't just waste my time when I'm in clinic doing the exercises I do at home again, and doesn't leave me on my own for 20-30 mins during an appointment to go tend to other patients.

she is the one who treats all the university athletes for one of the local uni's sports teams, so they have a pretty nice clinic too, geared for more active and higher performing folks.
 
oh and Montana I think you asked about whether I use a theraband thinger, and the answer is no.

we do have a foam roller and lacrosse ball we'll use post-climbing.

but if I'm being honest, that's the next thing I need to improve and work at, cooling down and maximizing my recovery. want to come up with a like 20-30 min yoga type climbing cooldown routine...


View: https://youtu.be/Jkl5X4qOP70?si=aQhGtUInxyudzEjB

climbers seem to swear by them. Might be a cheap addition to your routine you could look to add.
 
I’ve also heard the big thing with IT bands is working on strengthening exercises moreso than just stretching/pain relief when they’re tight.

Hip thrusts, and runners extensions with a resistance band are great.

Purely anecdotal so I’d put zero credence in this….but I also like if I’m doing something like pigeon pose, to kinda “flex” that back leg and put some tension on it lifting it from the floor a bit, so it’s stretched under load. It’s something I saw inn a DDP Yoga video back in the day that made sense, so I ripped it off anytime I’m doing yoga like poses/stretches. 🤷🏻‍♂️
I find that engaging the support muscles really help stability in the mobility. Like you mentioned, the leg that’s back (in extension) works best when you tuck the hip and engage the glute. It gives support to the psoas and upper quad for optimal controlled movement and lengthening.
 
MAT being?
Muscle activation technique. Tbh I still don't see any decent or even encouraging research behind it, though it is a pretty common sense approach. I tried it at the recommendation of ME and it is the only thing that has ever made a huge difference for me. It isolated the root cause of my issues (which may not apply to everyone) by identifying every single solitary weak muscle and/or muscle that simply isn't firing. This results in other muscles over compensating and carrying the load, which results in aches and injuries from those muscles taking on too much burden.

Simply putting bandaids on my injury issues was never really solving anything.
 
Muscle activation technique. Tbh I still don't see any decent or even encouraging research behind it. But I tried it at the recommendation of ME and it is the only thing that has ever made a huge difference for me. It isolated the root cause of my issues (which may not apply to everyone) by identifying every single solitary weak muscle and/or muscle that simply isn't firing. This results in other muscles over compensating and carrying the load, which results in aches and injuries from those muscles taking on too much burden.

Simply putting bandaids on my injury issues was never really solving anything.
yah I feel like my intro to dry needling was similar.

physio recommended it, noted a lack of significant research but said folks love it and swear by it. so I tried it. and it makes me feel better, so I kept doing it.

think the shockwave therapy was similar. although admittedly they used me as a guinea pig, since they'd never done it on a finger before. I did fully recover from my finger injury, but holy hell was the shockwave therapy painful.
 
yah I feel like my intro to dry needling was similar.

physio recommended it, noted a lack of significant research but said folks love it and swear by it. so I tried it. and it makes me feel better, so I kept doing it.

think the shockwave therapy was similar. although admittedly they used me as a guinea pig, since they'd never done it on a finger before. I did fully recover from my finger injury, but holy hell was the shockwave therapy painful.
I was pretty desperate. Tried a whole bunch of junk that I went into with a poor attitude because I'm cynical and physiotherapy is 95% scam modalities. But MAT always felt sensical to me and my issues mostly from playing hockey for many years. I knew I had tremendous muscular imbalance and weakness in certain areas. It was fascinating to discover which muscles were as weak as an infant's and which muscles weren't firing at all. Building those up and training your brain to use those muscles is basically what the process then becomes.
 
Have you tried daily hanging on a pull up bar?….its shown to be remarkably effective for the majority of shoulder issues, as it opens up the space in your shoulder joint over the long term, reducing any impingement etc.
I love hanging... I have put in a TRX system at work, in my garage and two pull up stations in my basement. I use the bands to help nerve flossing and breaking up fascia.
 
You can a lot with TRX!

Our next house will hopefully have a dedicated climbing training area. For now I’m a ~10 min bike ride from the climbing gym so it’s not strictly necessary, but as my tolerance for other humans decreases over time…(we’re in the midst of the return of the students to Halifax. An annual sacrifice ritual)
 
Muscle activation technique. Tbh I still don't see any decent or even encouraging research behind it, though it is a pretty common sense approach. I tried it at the recommendation of ME and it is the only thing that has ever made a huge difference for me. It isolated the root cause of my issues (which may not apply to everyone) by identifying every single solitary weak muscle and/or muscle that simply isn't firing. This results in other muscles over compensating and carrying the load, which results in aches and injuries from those muscles taking on too much burden.

Simply putting bandaids on my injury issues was never really solving anything.

It's a tough thing to study tbh because there's no way to really double blind physio issues. How do you get a representative sample of people with the same type of physical ailments, with similar root causation together in a cohort to give one MAT and the other a placebo? What would the placebo even be? So yeah, I'm stuck with anecdotal evidence on this and all I can say for certain is that I saw a half dozen physio therapists over the course of a few years to sort out a back issue in my early 30's, all of whom did different modalities. Stretching and strengthening, traction styled stuff to stretch/decompress the spine, heat combined with needle insertion hooked up to an electric current, etc.

Nothing worked much at all, I had physios telling me that I probably had herniated disk or some other structural issue that would probably require surgery, yadda yadda, doctors kept saying no, spine is fine here's a painkiller. Found a smart as fuck young physio in Calgary (I'm 36ish by then) who was doing the deep needling at the time and that did more good than anything else, by a fair margin. It was basically using 2-3 inch needles to stab agitated/overworked muscles to make them calm the fuck down for long enough to take some blood in. Was a bandaid though, a really good bandaid that would sort me out weeks at a time but as soon as I was able to get back into the gym, any exercise engaging the lower back would start the cycle of me ending up back in his office again. Squats, deadies, kettlebell swings, whatever. Almost didn't matter the weight either. After over a year of going to him to get rebooted every few months, he finished his MAT certie and suggested switching to it. Found out that my hip flexors were lazy cocksuckers the entire time, and a bunch of stuff in my hips and core weren't firing at all so my lower back was taking on all of the stability work and when they got overworked, pain. 2 months of steady work with him on this and I went pain free for a year for the first time since I was in my mid 20's. Moved back to Ontario, about 6 months after that had a flair up. Found another physio who did MAT in richmond hill (Jenny ftw) and a few months work with her and I'm on like year 4-5 since I had my last session, pain free.

I've convinced about a dozen people to try MAT over the years and every last one of them saw significant improvement.

Abstract: The shit is good
N=12
Results: The shit is good
 
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